Ramadhan in Cape Town

Of course, I wouldn’t disappoint.

First, a history lesson. (Jaja and Shale I know you are going to Wikipedia this, so if I make any mistakes please feel free to correct) Muslims first came to Cape Town in a great number about 310 years ago, from the Malay archipelago, as slaves. They were valued among other things, as healers, craftsmen, and obviously for their petit beauty. A later group was exiled to the Cape by the Dutch East India Company. The exiled group consisted mainly of religious leaders and political dissidents. They were given a higher status by colonialists, and so amassed wealth, which was then taken from them during the Apartheid era.

The first Muslims that came to the Cape lay down the traditions, that are still followed today. They brought with them Malayu, which eventually worked its way into the grammar of modern day Afrikaans.

So, what effect did all of this have on Ramadaan in the Cape? How do I experience Ramadaan, and 3eed here?

Ramadaan is a special time that the whole of Cape Town embraces, Muslim, or not. Large supermarkets have special prices for food that people eat often like bananas, milk and rice. One large supermarket chain (something like Tesco’s or Tamimi) even has a drive to sponsor some poor families in the community so that they can have a better Ramadaan. At the major universities, exam times are shuffled, so that students don’t write while they have to Iftaar. Colleagues are always sensitive to a fasting person, and apologise if they have to eat in front of that person. Muslims in Cape Town come together to give meals to the poor, and have a city-wide Qara2at Al Quraan competition.

A large contributor to the spreading of the news about events that are happening, is the Muslim radio stations. They play the Adhaan (all year round) five times daily, and keep the entire community updated with news of deaths and births, birthdays and prayers, and also have a range of normal programmes like sports and social commentary.

The day is pretty normal, up early for Su7oor. My Su7oor menu sounds large, but I only eat little portions of everything. I have eggs, low glycaemic index bread, vegetables, oatmeal, fruit, water, and yoghurt. Then its off to a eight(sometimes ten or twelve hour) day at work, and then home. Iftaar is milk, or soup, or a fruit. And tarawee7 after that. By the time I get home finally I’m knackered, and its even worse when I’m invited out, because then its back to the hosts home for dessert.

Tradition here dictates that the younger children take savoury or sweet platters to their neighbours in exchange for something from the neighbours table. In recent years the trend has been away from oily and sweet foods to more healthy treats. Traditional treats include samoosa, boeber, soji, falooda, and oh, too many more to mention. (May I add that they are all equally delicious). The night before 3eed, most Cape Townian Muslims gather in an area called Three Anchor Bay, to sight the coming of the moon. They have a mass Iftar, and then perform Maghrib salaah together. Last year it was estimated that 7000 Muslims showed up. People then stay for a picnic if the next day is 3eed (with shisha too!) and go home for tarawee7 if it is not 3eed.

3eed in itself is a big deal, like it is elsewhere in the world. Most people apply for leave from their work for 3eed, and then work over Christmas. Others get the day off. New clothes are bought, curtains are changed, houses are aired, and loads of food gets prepared. Kids get some money as an 3eediya (or 3eed gift).

On the morning of 3eed, most men go to the masjid. After masjid, they visit the graves of those who have passed on in their families. Others go straight home for a breakfast of pie and other yummies. Then people usually get dressed and go to greet each other. Lunch is usually at the family home, with brothers and sisters and uncles and everyone. In the evenings, the older folks sit together, while the younger ones group up with friends and go to ‘model’ their 3eed clothes at the biggest malls or go for coffee together at the beach. This is the best people watching time, as some guys even hire flashy and smart cars to take their friends out with.

And that everyone, is Ramadaan and 3eed in Cape Town.

For Shale:

some of the terms that you may not be familiar with:

Iftaar: dinner
Qara2at Al Quran: Reciting of the Quran in a melodious fashion
Adhaan: call to prayer
Su7oor: breakfast
Tarawee7: special evening prayer after the last prayer of the night. It lasts about two hours.
Samoosa: a triangular folded pastry, usually savoury
Boeber: a sweet, spicy, warm, milk drink, with nuts and raisins
Soji: a sweet pudding
Falooda: a pink, fragrant cold milk drink
Maghrib: the prayer after sunset